Expedition questions, answered carefully.

A practical guide to readiness, editions, safety, logistics, privacy and consultation with Thamserku Expedition.

02 - FREQUENTLY ASKED
CATEGORY IABOUT

About Thamserku Expedition

The house, the history, and what we do.

A.01Thamserku is a Kathmandu-based high-altitude expedition house with operational roots dating to the late 1980s. We plan and lead ascents on Everest and Nepal's major peaks — managing permits, logistics, Sherpa teams, and safety architecture — for a small number of carefully selected clients each season.

A.02Since 1987. The house has organised more than 800 expeditions across 66 peaks for climbers from 42 nations — including some of the most significant ascents in Everest's history. The full record is on our Legacy and Heritage pages.

A.03Yes — Thamserku was founded in Kathmandu in 1987, a Sherpa-founded house from the first generation of Nepali-owned expedition operators. You work directly with the people who hold the route knowledge, not through a foreign brand subcontracting to them.

A.04Our primary focus is Everest and Nepal's other 8,000m peaks. We also plan ascents on significant 7,000m objectives, including routes used as preparation for higher mountains. The specific peaks offered in a given season are discussed during consultation.

A.05Ask four questions and insist on specific answers: Who exactly will lead my climb, and what is their record on this route? What are your Sherpa-to-climber ratio and oxygen margins — in numbers? How do you decide when not to go up? And who actually operates the expedition — you, or a subcontractor behind your brand? Operators worth climbing with answer all four without flinching. Thamserku's answers are throughout this site.

A.06We do not operate at volume. Each season we take a small number of clients — selected for readiness, not budget alone. Our Sherpa leadership, oxygen planning, and summit-day judgement are built on decades of high-altitude experience. Every expedition begins with an honest conversation about whether the mountain is appropriate for you.

A.07The house stepped back deliberately in 2020, through the pandemic and the industry upheaval that followed. The return is a reconstruction, not a restart: a new generation of leadership, the Yeti Group's aviation and hospitality infrastructure behind every expedition, and a portfolio of thirteen peaks chosen deliberately. The standard is the old house's standard.

A.08Thamserku stands within the Yeti Group, one of Nepal's most established travel and aviation ecosystems. Practically, it means aviation coordination, hospitality, and mountain logistics handled within one family of companies rather than across vendor counters — invisible when things go well, decisive when they don't.

CATEGORY IIEDITIONS

The Five Editions.

Alpine through Explorer — what each means and how to choose.

A.01An edition is a complete philosophy of how your expedition is organised — from the purist Alpine Edition (half-board support to Base Camp, the climb your own) to the Definitive Edition (the benchmark of expedition service) and the Explorer Edition (first ascents, new routes, records). It is not a price tier dressed up; it is a coherent set of decisions about support, comfort, and margin. The Editions page explains all five.

A.02Thamserku offers five expedition structures: Alpine (A), Bespoke (B), Crafted (C), Definitive (D), and Explorer (E). Each reflects a different balance of group size, privacy, staffing depth, and service. Alpine is the most essential structure; Explorer is the most comprehensive and customizable.

A.03Edition selection is guided by three factors: the level of privacy you want, the depth of support you need, and the mountain you are attempting. These are discussed during the private consultation. If you are unsure, write to us and we will recommend accordingly.

A.04Yes, until a formal proposal is accepted. The consultation is exploratory and revision is part of the process. We may recommend a different edition than the one you had in mind. Once a proposal is confirmed and a deposit placed, major structural changes are handled case by case.

A.05All five editions begin with a private consultation — no expedition is structured without one. Alpine (A) and Explorer (E) are enquiry-only structures. Editions B, C, and D can be explored through a guided consultation interface. In all cases, a proposal is prepared only after a conversation.

A.06Two doors: the Design Your Expedition flow, which configures your peak, edition, and options with pricing assembling as you choose — or a direct enquiry, which begins with a conversation. Either way, every expedition is confirmed through consultation with our desk; nothing is sold by checkout button.

A.07Major expeditions (Everest, Lhotse, Manaslu, Ama Dablam) are best confirmed 9–12 months ahead — permits, team composition, and Definitive Edition capacity all favour early conversations. Trekking-peak expeditions can be organised on shorter horizons.

A.08Payment and cancellation terms are confirmed in writing at the time of booking — our desk will walk you through them before any commitment.

A.09Yes — the Explorer Edition exists for exactly this, including unclimbed and rarely climbed objectives. Custom-peak conversations begin through the consultation desk.

CATEGORY IIIREADINESS

Readiness and Experience.

What we look for before any conversation about a mountain.

A.01That depends on your edition — which is the point. Alpine Edition is half-board and elemental; Crafted brings a private mess, full board, and refined rhythm; Definitive is the benchmark, suite tents to dedicated chef. What never varies: the catering discipline, the hygiene standards, and the experienced Sherpa team running it all.

A.02It depends entirely on the mountain — each dossier states its prerequisite plainly, from 'honest fitness' (Mera) to 'a substantial expedition record, reviewed individually' (Api). What is constant: Thamserku reviews every application against your actual record, and will decline configurations that don't match it. That honesty is part of the service, and part of the safety system.

A.03There is no minimum before writing to us. Some clients come with extensive Himalayan backgrounds; others arrive at the consultation stage with strong trekking experience and a serious intention to develop further. We will assess where you are and advise accordingly — including whether a preparation expedition makes more sense as a first step.

A.04Yes. For clients whose altitude history does not yet support a major summit objective, we recommend 7,000m preparation expeditions — carefully selected to build acclimatisation, technical confidence, and cold-weather experience. This is discussed during consultation and included in the recommendation process.

A.05We ask you to describe your recent fitness background, climbing history, and any known medical conditions during the consultation. We do not conduct a clinical assessment, but we will be direct if we believe you are not adequately prepared. Safety requires honesty on both sides.

A.06Months of structured endurance work — sustained uphill capacity under load matters more than gym strength — plus altitude exposure where your geography allows it. On confirmation, Thamserku provides a preparation framework appropriate to your peak and edition, and our desk reviews your progress in the lead-up.

A.07Mera Peak — the honest beginning. Genuine altitude, teachable skills, full expedition standards. From there the ladder is deliberate: Mera answers the altitude question, Baruntse or Himlung answers the expedition question, and the 8,000-metre world becomes a step rather than a gamble.

A.08On certain configurations, yes — Base Camp life on Crafted and Definitive Editions can accommodate companions and trekking programmes can run alongside. Raise it at design stage and we will build around it.

A.0918+ for expedition peaks; upper age assessed individually on medical and experience review rather than by number.

A.10Yes — Base Camp connectivity is standard across editions, personal communications packages are configurable, and the Definitive Edition includes a Kathmandu family-updates desk that keeps those at home informed through summit pushes.

A.11The mountain decides, and we say so before you book. Itineraries carry deliberate margin for weather, and summit windows are chosen against multiple forecasts — but no serious operator guarantees a summit, and you should walk away from any that does.

CATEGORY IVSAFETY

Safety and Protocols.

How we approach risk, rescue, and the decision to turn back.

A.01Summit decisions are made on the mountain, not in advance. We assess weather windows, client condition, oxygen levels, team readiness, and route status before committing to any summit push. The Sherpa team's judgement is authoritative. We do not pressure clients or guides toward the summit in marginal conditions.

A.02Medical support depends on the edition and mountain. All expeditions include trained high-altitude personnel, oxygen provisioning, and evacuation planning. Higher editions include dedicated medical staff and enhanced rescue infrastructure. Specific arrangements are confirmed in the expedition proposal.

A.03We turn back. This is not a negotiable position. If conditions, health, altitude, or team assessment indicate that proceeding is unsafe, the expedition halts. Clients who have understood this clearly during the consultation are better prepared for that decision when it arrives.

A.04Yes. Thamserku plans for evacuation at every stage — from base camp through high-altitude camps. Rescue protocols are established before the expedition departs, and our operations team in Kathmandu maintains active communication with the mountain throughout.

A.05Our safety philosophy is published in full on the Safety page — and deliberately, it is built on systems rather than statistics: leadership empowered to turn teams around, Sherpa ratios that are never diluted, oxygen margins carried above requirement, three independent forecasts on every summit window. A percentage tells you how often climbers went up; judgement is what decides when they shouldn't.

A.06Rescue and medical insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering and helicopter evacuation is mandatory on every Thamserku expedition, verified before departure. Our desk advises on appropriate cover at design stage.

A.07Every expedition begins with a pre-planned evacuation protocol: helicopter procedures and staging points identified per route, medical kits at Base Camp and on the mountain, continuous communications watch during rotations, and — through the Yeti Group ecosystem — aviation coordination handled in-house. The Safety page details the full architecture.

CATEGORY VLOGISTICS

Logistics and Planning.

Seasons, permits, equipment, and what is included.

A.01The primary season for Everest and most 8,000m peaks is pre-monsoon spring (March–May), with a shorter autumn window (September–November) suitable for some objectives. Season selection depends on the mountain, your timing, and the edition structure — this is part of the consultation discussion.

A.02Yes. Nepal Government climbing permits, liaison officer fees, and national park entry are arranged and included by Thamserku as part of the expedition structure. No permit cost falls outside the proposal unless an extraordinary change in regulation occurs.

A.03For spring Everest and major 8,000m objectives, we recommend beginning the consultation process at least twelve months in advance. Permit availability, Sherpa team construction, and logistical lead times make early engagement essential. Shorter timelines may be possible for autumn objectives or specific editions — ask at consultation.

A.04Thamserku provides fixed-line infrastructure, high-altitude oxygen systems, base camp facilities, and communal high-camp equipment. Clients bring personal gear: boots, clothing layers, crampons, harness, and personal items. A detailed equipment list is issued once an expedition proposal is confirmed.

A.05Most nationalities obtain a tourist visa on arrival at Kathmandu — our desk confirms requirements for your nationality at design stage, and all expedition permits are handled entirely by Thamserku.

A.06Each dossier carries its full inclusions list by edition. As a rule: permits, Base Camp infrastructure, climbing support, group equipment, and in-country expedition logistics are ours; international flights, personal equipment, and insurance are yours. The Design flow makes every line explicit before you commit.

A.07Expedition pricing is quoted and invoiced in USD, RMB and EUR. Deposits and balances can be paid by [bank transfer / card]; on-the-ground incidental expenses in Nepal are typically in Nepali rupees.

CATEGORY VICONSULTATION

The Consultation.

How to begin, what to expect, and how we handle your enquiry.

A.01A forty-five-minute conversation shaped to your background and intention. A senior advisor reviews your climbing history, discusses the right mountain and edition, identifies the level of support and privacy you need, and outlines possible next steps. Nothing is sold during the call — a proposal follows only if direction is set.

A.02Yes. The consultation is exploratory and carries no obligation. If we do not believe we are the right operator for your objective or your level of readiness, we will say so honestly. A proposal is only prepared when both sides are confident in the fit.

A.03Within 48 hours. Every enquiry is read and responded to by a senior member of the expedition team — not an automated system. You may also write directly to kushal@thamserkuexpedition.com or reach us by WhatsApp at +977 97052216623.

A.04You do not need every answer before writing. Share the background you have: your highest previous altitude, recent fitness, the mountain you are considering, and your approximate timing. If you are uncertain about the mountain or edition, say so — that is useful information too.

03 — NEWSLETTER

Dispatches from the high frontier.

Season announcements, expedition reports, and the occasional story from forty years of records — written rarely, and only when there is something worth saying.

We will never share your details. You may unsubscribe at any time.
04 — BEGIN PRIVATELY

Some questions are best answered privately.

If your question depends on experience, route, timing or privacy, begin with the expedition desk.

All expedition details are subject to route conditions, permits, staffing, weather and client readiness.