Makalu – 8,463m/27,765ft
Makalu – 8,463m/27,765ft
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EXPEDITION OVERVIEW
Mount Makalu is the fifth highest mountain on earth raising at an elevation of 8,463 meters above the sea level.
It is located in the Mahalangur Himal 19km southeast of Mt. Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border in Makalu-Barun National Park.
The name “Makalu” is derived from a Sanskrit word “ Maha and Kala” which means “Big Black”. As it's named, it is the mountain having four sharp ridges forming a perfect pyramid of rock and ice on the top.
The Everest summiteers take Makalu as evidence of reaching the summit of Everest if anyone presents a photograph having Makalu in the background, as Makalu is visible from the Everest summit.
Makalu was first climbed on 15th May 1955 by a French expedition team members Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray. A few days later, the other seven team members reached the summit.
Makalu 40 Day Itinerary Overview

Makalu 35 Day Itinerary Overview

EXPEDITION DOSSIER

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40 Day Regular Program Makalu Expedition
Dossier
Download our detailed expedition notes for Mount Makalu, including our detailed itinerary and kit list.

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35 Day Special Program Makalu Expedition
Dossier
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DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Full-day hikes in heavy snow (4-6 hours), mountainous terrain, significant elevation gains and losses (hiking up or down as much as 5,000 feet) on many days. Requiring extreme fitness.




EXPEDITION DOSSIER

Download Our
Makalu Expedition
Dossier
Download our detailed expedition notes for Mount Makalu, including our detailed itinerary and kit list.

Download Our
35 Day Special Program Makalu Expedition
Dossier
Download our detailed expedition notes for Mount Makalu, including our detailed itinerary and kit list.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Full-day hikes in heavy snow (4-6 hours), mountainous terrain, significant elevation gains and losses (hiking up or down as much as 5,000 feet) on many days. Requiring extreme fitness.
PRICE AND SERVICE – OPTION 1
Makalu Expedition (35 Days)
$15,999 USD per person (tax inclusive)
Price based per person (maximum 12 members)
- 15,999 USD per person (tax inclusive)
- Valid until: 28-Feb-2023.
- Max group size: 12
- 42 Days
- Regular Travel Dates: 8th April - 20th May 2023
This price includes the following charges:
GOVERNMENT AND RELATED CHARGES
- Makalu climbing royalty fee of US$ 1,800
- 1 X Government liaison officer with flight, accommodation, meals and wages
- Garbage deposit fees of US$3000
- Makalu-Barun National park fee
- Route fixing charge for higher camps to the summit
- Summit certificate from Department of Tourism after the summit
- Weather forecast report from Switzerland
SERVICE IN KATHMANDU
- International and Domestic Airport Transfer.
- 4 nights in a preferred hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
- Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
- Return flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar
- Transportation from Tumlingtar Airport to Num, and Numb to Khandbari to Tumlingtar Airport after expedition.
- 2 X Thamserku Duffel bag per member
SERVICE DURING TREKKING
- 15 nights’ accommodation in a local lodge on full board (breakfast, lunch & dinners)
- Hot water for drinking purposes.
- Emergency Medical Kit and Oxygen during the trek.
- Porters to carry trekking and expedition gears.
- Assistance of Guide and Sherpa during the trek.
BASE CAMP SERVICE
- Single tent per member with comfortable mattress & pillow
- Tent for climbing and Kitchen crew on twin sharing
- Kitchen, Dining, Shower and toilet tent (communication tent for 8 pax above)
- Solar panel/generator for light and battery charging
- Gas heater for the dining tent
- 3 meals a day, snacks and unlimited tea and coffee on request
- Internet facility depending upon the network provider & group size
SERVICE AT HIGHER CAMPS
CAMP I, II, III AND IV
- Brand new tent North Face/Ozark/Red Fox on twin sharing for members and climbing crew
- Total 7 bottles of POISK oxygen – 4 for members, 2 for Sherpa & 1 for emergency
- Latest Mask and regulator for members and Sherpa & one extra for emergency
- High Altitude food (B, L&D) for members and climbing crew
- Enough Epi gas, gas stove and cooking pot set for CI,CII, CIII and CIV
- 1 x satellite for emergency and walkie-talkie for a member, Sherpa and basecamp
- Group safety equipment, i.e. extra rope, carabiners, ice axe, ice screw
- Porterage of personal and group camping equipment
- Transportation charges for supplying fresh meat, fruits and vegetables to the Base Camp
- Expedition Crew Allocation & Cost
- Climbing Crew: Expedition Manager/Climbing Guide and 1 personal Sherpa (1:1 ratio) for the summit
- One High Altitude Cook for a group size 6 or above
- One Cook and required number of kitchen porters at the basecamp
- Porters to carry camping equipment’s and supply food from Lukla to Basecamp
- Equipment’s, daily wages, carrying bonus and medical insurance for climbing crew/Sherpa
- Equipment’s, daily wages, and medical insurance for Kitchen crew and porters
This price does not include the following charges:
WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED?
- Summit bonus of USD $1000 for climbing Sherpa once you make a summit attempt from Camp IV or US$500 if dropped from Camp IV
- Unexpected increment in the royalty fee/climbing permit
- International airfare and Nepal visa fee
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Extra hotel nights in Kathmandu
- Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance
- Medical evacuation charge if required
- Personal trekking and climbing gears
- Tips for climbing Sherpa and Kitchen team at basecamp
- Service besides mentioned in inclusions example - extra oxygen, Sherpa and porters
- Other personal nature expenses i.e. alcoholic beverages and self-ordered hot drinks during the trek
ITINERARY
- DAY 01 - Arrive in Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport and taken to the hotel to relax.
- DAY 02 - In Kathmandu
Free day in Kathmandu for equipment preparation, attend government briefing and arrangement of documentation needed for the expedition.
Welcome dinner will be at a Le Sherpa restaurant
- DAY 3 - Fly to Tumlingtar and drive to Num (1550m)
Depending on your flight time, after breakfast you will be transferred to Kathmandu domestic terminal for 35 minutes flight to Tumlingtar. From Tumlingtar Ariport you will take a 4 hours’ drive towards Khandbari to Num. The drive is not a pleasant one as it’s on off-road, rocky, muddy and bumpy.
- DAY 4 - Trek to village of Seduwa (1530m) - 6 hours
The trek starts with a couple of hour’s steep descent to the bank of the Arun River and after crossing the suspension bridge you start a steep climb to Seduwa passing through bamboo forest and small teahouses.
- DAY 5 - Trek to Tashigaon (2065m) – 6 hours
In the Arun valley you continue through the bamboo and rhododendron forest and the fields of small hamlets up to the Sherpa town of Tashigaon (2.180 m), the highest permanent settlement in the valley.
- DAY 6 - Trek to Khongma Danda (3500m) – 7 hours
Leaving Tashigaon, you climb uphill through dense forest and lushly blooming rhododendron trees to the small mountain pasture of Kauma La (3560 m), at the foot of the high passes to the Barun valley.
- DAY 7 - Rest and acclimatisation day at Khongma Danda
Today as part of the acclimatization to cope your body with the altitude, you hike up to an elevation of 3,900 meters to Khongma-La. After breakfast at the hotel, start ascending on the stone steps through the rhododendron forest to reach the Khongma-La. After spending 15-20 minutes, retrace the same route down to the lodge for a hot lunch. Afternoon is on your own either to relax or to explore.
- DAY 8 - Trek to Dobato (3860m) – 7 hours
After leaving the steep forest you enter the high alpine landscape with shrubs and pastures. Many walls with prayer stones and flags, as well as ice-cold, deep blue lakes make for a scenic setting in front of the gigantic mountain massive of Makalu. With traversing the double passes of Shipton La (4170 m) and Barun La (aka Tutu La 4080 m) for the first time we surpass 4000m of altitude. A long descent takes you down to the jungle clearings of Dobato (3860 m) or Mumbuk (3520 m) above the densely wooded valley floor of the Barun river valley.
- DAY 9 - Trek to Yangle Kharka (3690m) – 5 hours
A pleasant descent through the rhododendron and pine forest and thickets of shrubs down to the Barun River is followed by a long traverse alongside the stream, at last crossing over a wooden bridge to the high pastures of Yangle Kharka (3690 m) on the other side.
- DAY 10 - Trek to Langmale (4420m)
Behind a wild valley end, we leave the timberline behind us and camp on the high pasture of Langmale surrounded by numerous impressive six and seven thousand meter high peaks.
- DAY 11-12 - Trek to Hillary BC/Makalu Basecamp (4800m)
Today you will reach the historic Makalu Basecamp also known as Hillary Basecamp passing the uninhabited pasture of Sherson (4650 m) in a short Day. This will give you time for a short stroll through the vicinity with spectacular views on the West Ridge of Makalu in the afternoon. You will spend a couple of nights at the base camp.
- DAY 13 - Trek to Makalu Advance Base Camp (5300m)
An arduous ascent will take you up to the advanced basecamp (ABC). Following the side moraine of the glacier, you finally cross the stream of ice and scree to the other side. Steep slopes, covered with big blocks of rock, are obstructing the way up the side valley of the Chago Glacier. Beware of rockfall and to lose the at times hardly visible path amongst the scree! On a small hill right at the tongue of the Chago Glacier, you reach ABC at 5300 meters.
- DAY 14-41 - Climbing period
- Rest day – Puja – climbing training
- First Rotation
- Climb to camp I (6100m)
- Touch Camp II (6600m) and descend to Advance Base camp
- Rest day at Base camp
- Second Rotation
- Climb to camp I (6100m)
- Climb to Camp II (6600m)
- Touch camp III (7400) and descent to Camp II (overnight)
- Descend to Base camp
- Rest and prepare for the summit push
- Summit Push
- Climb to camp I (6100m)
- Climb to camp II (overnight) – start at 5 am
- Climb to Camp III (overnight) – start at 9 am
- Climb to Camp IV – start at 4 am – reach by 1 pm – rest for 6 hours – start for summit at 8 pm
- Climb overnight at reach summit around 6-7 am and descend to Camp IV
- Descend to Camp II
- Descend to base camp
- Packing and clearing the Base camp after summit
Note - Be advised that the mentioned activities during the climbing period are a tentative plan. The actual planning of the summit is made at the base camp by your climbing guide. The activities may change because of the unstable weather conditions in the Himalayas and also your level of fitness. We advise you to book a Flexi flight and allow extra days in case if you need for the summit push.
- DAY 42-47 - Retrace the trial to Num and drive to Khandbari or Chopper in Optional
After the expedition is over, retrace the same route to Num passing Yangle Kharka, Dobato, Khongma, Tashigaon and Seduwa, and drive to Khandbari.
Note - In case of time shortage for the summit attempt, you can save 6 days by booking a chopper from the Makalu Base Camp to Lukla Airport or to Kathmandu. You can also save some money if you took a chopper to Lukal and take Lukla-Kathmandu flight.
- DAY 48 - Drive to Tumlingtar Airport and fly to Kathmandu
Early morning drive from Khandbari to Tumlingtar Airport. Fly back to the Kathmandu. After 35 minutes of flight, our representative will be waiting for you at the domestic airport to take you back to the hotel where you can enjoy your chilled beer and warm shower.
- DAY 49 - Free day in Kathmandu for official documentation and collect the certificate
Free day in Kathmandu for official documentation, closing briefing by the government and collecting certificate if successfully reached in the summit. Farewell dinner and celebration at Piano Piano restaurant at Nomad Hotel.
- DAY 50 - Final Departure
Depending on your flight time you will be transferred to the airport. The airport check-in is 3 hours before the departure time and the hotel checkout time is noon. In case your flight is late evening please let us know if you require half day use of the hotel.
ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT INFO
MOUNTAINEERING GEAR CHECKLIST (7000m to 8848m)
Bodywear
- Down Suit - Recommended Absolute Zero Over suit by Mountain Hardwear, or Ulvetanna Suit by Berghaus, or The Himalayan Suit by The North Face, or the Expedition Suit by Rab.
- Down Jacket and a pair of Down Salopettes - Recommended Absolute Zero Parka and Absolute Zero Pants by Mountain Hardwear, or by Rab. - not very bulky
- Waterproof Jacket and Over trousers that goes over your alpine boot
- Balaclava - Recommended The North Face A3543 Unisex Wool Balaclava or similar covering nose and face
- Long sleeve Thermal shirt and Trousers - Recommended anti-sweat
- Fleece Jacket and Trousers - Recommended Patagonia, or The North Face, or Mountain Hardwear
Hand wear
- Liner gloves - thin and warm
- Down mitts - Recommended The North Face, or Marmot Expedition mitt, or Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Mittand.
- Mountain Gloves - Recommended water & windproof
- Gore-Tex Primaloft Glove - Recommended the North Face, or Mountain Hardwear.
- Smartwool Mountaineering Socks (2 pairs - new)
- Ultra-Soft Running / Hiking Socks (2 pairs - new)
- Mountaineering boot Recommended La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo or Millet Everest GTX
- Alpine boot - Recommended La Sportiva Men's Nepal EVO GTX Boot or similar
Climbing equipment
- Climbing helmet - Recommended Black Diamond
- Ski Goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
- Headlamp - Recommended Black Diamond & Petzl
- Spare batteries - Recommended Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries
- Harness Set
- Lightweight Harness - Recommended DMM Super Couloir, or Black Diamond Couloir Harness, or Mammut Ophira 3 Side climbing harness
- Ascender (Jummer) - Recommended Petzl or Black Diamond
- Abseiling device - Recommended Black Diamond ATC Guide Bley Device, or Petzl GRIGRI 2 Grey Belay, or Descent Device D14BG
- Screwgate Carabiners (2 X large, 2 X small sizes) - Recommended Petzl or Black Diamond
- Bent Gate Carabiners (2 medium sizes) - Recommended Petzl or Black Diamond
- 6 mm rope - Recommended 2 meters UIAA tested
- 6 mm rope - Recommended 5 meters UIAA tested
- 1 X tape sling - Recommended 120 cm UIAA tested
- Dynamic 8.9 mm rope (single rope) - Recommended 2 m UIAA tested
- Classical Alpine ice-axe - Recommended (70-90 cm) Petzl, or Grivel Air Tech, or Black Diamond
- Crampons that fits Mountaineering boots - Recommended Grivel G-12 New-Matic Crampons
Other equipment
- 55-65 Liter Rucksack - Recommended POD Black Ice, Crux AK47 (extendable) and Crux AK57
- Base Camp Duffel – XXL
- 2 X 5 season sleeping bag with compression bag - Recommended North Face and Mountain Hardwear
- 2 X 5 season foam sleeping mat - Recommended 72 x 20 inches (20 x 5 x 5.5 inches folded) and weigh around 14 ounces
- Swiss Army Knife with a multi-tools system or leathermen
- 1-litre stainless steel thermos - that works in extreme weather condition
TREKKING GEAR CHECKLIST(2000m to 5000m)
Headwear
- Sun Hat/Normal cap
- Fleece or woollen hat
- Earmuffs/Ear warmers (optional)
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Buff Scarf / thin face mask
Handwear
- Fleece or woollen thin gloves
- Gore-Tex mitten gloves
Bodywear
- Gore-Tex Jacket
- Gore-Tex Pant
- Hiking pant
- Fleece trouser and jacket or warm jumper - Recommended not thick but warm enough that fits inside the Gore-Tex pant
- Anti-sweat T-shirt
- Thermal inner trouser
- Down jacket with hoodie
Footwear
- Trekking boots
- Hollow Out Outdoor Slipper
- Trekking socks (4-5 pair)
- Snow Gaiter
Other equipment
- Sleeping bag (comfort rated - 15 ºC)
- 30 Liter Rucksack with cover
- Large size Duffel Bag with padlock
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Water bottles 1 Liter
- Thermos
- Basic First Aid Kit including antiseptic cream, throat lozenges, diarrhoea treatment (Imodium), altitude (Diamox), painkillers, plasters and blister treatment, insect repellent, and re-hydration salts (Dioralite). Glucose tablets and multi-vitamin tablets are also a good idea.
Washing Kit & Toiletries
- Waterproof washing kit bag
- Towel - medium size
- Washing soap, towel, tooth pest, toothbrush etc.
- Sun Lotion Enough +30SPF (including total bloc for lips, nose etc.)
- Handwash & sanitizer
- Toilet paper (you can buy this in the lodges)
- Wet tissues
Optional items
- Trekking poles
- Trainers or similar for use in the lodges
- Shorts
- Baselayer leggings
- Gaiters
- Sleeping bag liner
- Pillowcase
- Earplugs (particularly if you are not the one snoring)
- Camera
- Pen-knife (remember to pack sharp objects in hold baggage)
- Repair kit – (e.g. needle, thread, duct tape)
ESSENTIAL DOCUMENTATION INFO
Required Documents:- Scanned copy of the main page of the passport
- Scanned passport size photograph
- Confirmed airline ticket
- Proof of COVID vaccination both dose 1 and dose 2
- A copy of medical insurance including COVID insurance of up to $5000 coverage
- Fit to join the expedition letter from personal Doctor
- Completed Bio-data form (the form will be emailed prior the expedition)
- Apart from having travel insurance and being in generally good health, some pre-holiday health preparation is advised. We strongly recommend you visit your doctor to discuss health requirements for your trip. Some vaccines need to be administered a few weeks before departure so allow plenty of time. Obtain a certificate of vaccination and carry this with you on this trip. A dental checkup is also highly recommended before departure.
- Dawa Sherpa (Expedition Manager): +977-9801333616
- Anjan Rai (Expedition Manager): +077-9823338761
- Office Hours only: Thamserku Office: 00977-1-5909982
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