Highlights of Lhotse Expedition
- Summit of Lhotse the 4th highest mountain
- 11 days back and forth trek to Everest base camp on full board
- Benefits of 30 days logistic arrangement at base camp and rotations to Camp I, II, III & IV
- Safe climb and descend with the assistance of an experienced climbing crew
- A Pooja ceremony and technical climbing skill training
- Climbing on Khumbu Icefall and experience walk on the ladder to cross crevasses
- A steep climb on blue ice and snow to Camp III
- Steep climb and traverses on Yellow band and Lhotse Face to Camp IV
Lhotse Expedition Overview
Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world standing at an elevation of 8,516 meters above sea level. It is a neighboring mountain to Everest, located in the Mahalangur Himal on the border between the Nepalese Khumbu region and the north of Tibet.
On both sides it is surrounded by a vast sanctuary – Sagarmatha National Park on Nepal Side and on the Tibetan side by the Qomolangma National Nature Reserve.
Lhotse is connected to Everest via the south Cole so it is named the “South Peak” in Tibetan. Lhotse is the only mountain having three summits, the main summit, the middle summit at 8,414m, and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m above sea level.
The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on 12th May 1970 by the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition team member Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. Lhotse and Everest share the same route and camps up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp III. From Yellow Band, the route separates, Everest towards the left while Lhotse to the right further up to the Lhotse face. The technical part for climbing Lhotse is the icy and rocky gully known as “Reiss Couloir” – the last part of the summit.
Arrive in Kathmandu
You will be met at the airport and taken to the hotel to relax.
Free day in Kathmandu for equipment preparation, attend government briefing, and arrangement of documentation needed for the expedition.
Welcome dinner will be at a Le Sherpa restaurant
Fly to Lukla (30 minutes), Trek to Phakding (2,651m): 3-4 hours of trek
The first flight to Lukla takes place very early in the morning. Depending on the time, you will have your breakfast either in the hotel or upon arrival in Lukla. You will be transferred to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu Airport from where you take your flight to Lukla which is about 40 minutes landing on the narrow, runway high above the Dudh Koshi River. Your porters and support staff will be waiting at the airport to help you with your luggage to start your trek to Phakding. The trek to Phakding is an easy walk for the first day with a mostly downhill leg. The trek will take you through pastoral lands through several small villages and farms. Approximately after 3 hours, we reach Phakding where we spend our overnight in the tea houses that are run by Sherpas.
Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,438m): 5-6 hours
After breakfast, your guide will brief you about the day. An easy walk today to Monjo will take you through the pine trees and glimpses of distant snow-capped peaks. You will encounter impressive waterfalls and yaks along the way taking necessary foods and other essentials for the trekkers as well as the locals. You will pass through the checkpoint before reaching Monjo where the officials check your permits. Your guide will sort out the paper works while you can stroll around for a bit. After this you officially enter the Sagarmatha National Park and a little way up the trail, you arrive in Monjo where you will stop for lunch. After lunch, you start your trek through the wooded valley on a good trail crossing the river through the high suspension bridge. Right after the bridge is the upward climb towards Namche. An hour and a half long ascent to Namche – famous among the locals as “Namche KoUkalo” meaning the uphill of Namche. It is all uphill till you reach Namche, and about an hour before reaching Namche your hard work will be rewarded by your first view of Everest. Your guide will walk you to the lodge you will be staying overnight.
Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
Being situated at high altitudes, Namche Bazaar serves as an acclimatization stop for climbers to avoid altitude sickness. Namche Bazaar is the main centre of the Khumbu region and is facilitates with government offices, internet, ATM’s, restaurants, and a colourful market. Our guides can take us to explore the real charm of Namche Bazaar. We can observe traditional Sherpa life and enjoy flora and fauna found that grow at this altitude.
Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m): 5-6 hours
Today we will walk to the biggest monastery of the Everest region located at Tengboche. It encloses within Sagarmatha National Park which is listed in the UNESCO world heritage site. The trek to Phunki will be easy, but afterward ascending will become relatively harder. The panoramic view of the Himalayas from the monastery shows us a divine universe built under the same range. We can observe a Buddhist religious ceremony.
Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360m): 5-6 hours
With a magnificent view of a rhododendron forest followed by a bridge over the raging ImjaKhola (River), we ascend towards Dingboche. We’ll pass the valley wall and then the plains to Pangboche village, the biggest settlement of the Sherpa in the region. It is a great opportunity to have lunch with the local Sherpas.
Acclimatisation Day in Dingboche (4,360m)
Today we’ll rest our legs and settle our body with the increasing altitude. An optional trek to the Valley will pay off with rewarding views, but taking it easy for today is the important thing. Although, we can climb a ridge located behind the village and see six of the world’s tallest peaks including Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.
Dingboche to Lobuche (4,600m): 5-6 hours
From here on in, the trek will be gradually more challenging due to the high altitude. By trekking steep to the top of a high hill, we will be passing Dughla (Thukla). Before reaching Dughla, we trek across a wide pass which is a much-wanted change from walking in a straight line. The company of Himalayas will be on all sides of our trek. After crossing Dughla, the trail passes through boulder-strewn slopes. As the trail drops to the Khumbu Glacier moraine, we find ourselves facing great peaks.
Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m) and to Everest Base camp (5,364m) 5-6 hours
We take the trail through the once vast Gorakshep Lake. We pass through rocky dunes, moraine, and streams. You head out on narrow tracks that are of few feet wide and a few hundred meters above the ground. The distance between Lobuche and Gorakshep is 4.5 km and will take approximately 2 hours to reach.
From Gorakshep, It is approximately 3.4km to the Base Camp. As you walk across the rocks towards the many prayer flags that mark the spot, you will arrive at Everest Base Camp. It will take approximately 3 hours to reach Everest Base Camp from Gorakshep.
Day 11 to Day 39
At Base camp Climbing Period
- Rest day – Puja – climbing training
- First Rotation
- Climb to camp I (spend overnight)
- Touch Camp II and descend to Base camp
- Rest day at Base camp
- Second Rotation
- Climb to camp II (spend overnight)
- Touch camp III and descend to Camp II (overnight) or Camp III (overnight)
- Descend to Base camp
- Rest and prepare for the summit push
- Summit Push
- Climb to camp II (overnight) – start at 5 am
- Climb to Camp III (overnight) – start at 9 am
- Climb to Camp IV – start at 4 am – reach by 1 pm – rest for 6 hours – start for summit at 8 pm
- Climb overnight at reach summit around 6-7 am and descend to Camp IV
- Descend to Camp II
- Descend to base camp
- Packing and clearing the Base camp after the summit
Note – Be advised that the mentioned activities during the climbing period are a tentative plan. The actual planning of the summit is made at the base camp by your climbing guide. The activities may change because of the unstable weather conditions in the Himalayas and also your level of fitness. We advise you to book a Flexi flight and allow extra days in case if you need for the summit push.
Day 40 to Day 42
Trek from Base camp to Lukla
- The route to Pheriche will be rapid as we descend and it will be easy as well.
- Back to Tengboche is mainly downhill from Pheriche, with a small uphill stretch.
From Namche, we’ll get up early and descend back to Lukla. We will pass Monjo after a short walk and then to Phakding. We stay on the same trail and advance towards Cheplung and further to Lukla
Early morning flight to Kathmandu
We will enjoy our last views of the mountains while flying back to Kathmandu from Lukla. After 25 minutes of flight, our representative will be waiting for you at the domestic airport to take you back to the hotel where you can enjoy your chilled beer and warm shower.
Free day in Kathmandu for official documentation and collect certificate
Free day in Kathmandu for official documentation, closing briefing by the government, and collecting certificate if successfully reached the summit. Farewell dinner and celebration at Piano Piano restaurant at Nomad Hotel.
Depending on your flight time you will be transferred to the airport. The airport check-in is 3 hours before the departure time and the hotel checkout time is noon. In case your flight is late evening please let us know if you require half day use of the hotel.
Government & Related charges
- Lhotse climbing royalty fee of US$ 1,800
- 1 X Government liaison officer with flight, accommodation, meals, and wages
- Garbage deposit fees of US$3000
- Sagarmatha National park fee
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural development fee
- Route fixing charge for Icefall and higher camps to the summit by SPCC & EOA
- Summit certificate from Department of Tourism after the summit
- Weather forecast report from Switzerland
Service in Kathmandu
- International and domestic airport transfers
- 4 nights in a preferred hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
- Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
- Return flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
- 2 X Thamserku Duffel bag per member
Service during Trekking
- 10 nights’ accommodation in a local lodge on full board (9 breakfast, 10 lunch & 9 dinners)
- Hot water for drinking purpose
- Medical Kit and oxygen during the trek
- Porters to carry trekking and expedition gears (1:1 ratio)
- The assistance of Guide and Sherpa during the trek
- Single tent per member with comfortable mattress & pillow
- Tent for climbing and Kitchen crew on twin sharing
- Kitchen, Dining, Shower and toilet tent (communication tent for 8 pax above)
- Solar panel/generator for light and battery charging
- Gas heater for the dining tent
- 3 meals a day, snacks, and unlimited tea and coffee on request
- Internet facility depending upon the network provider & group size
Service at higher camp: CI, CII, CII & CIV
- Brand new tent North Face/Ozark/Red Fox on twin sharing for members and climbing crew
- Total 9 bottles of POISK oxygen – 5 for members, 3 for Sherpa & 1 for emergency
- Latest Mask and regulator for members and Sherpa & one extra for emergency
- Kitchen tent for Camp II
- High Altitude food (B, L&D) for members and climbing crew
- Enough Epi gas, gas stove, and cooking pot set for CI, CIII, and CIV
- 1 satellite for emergency and walkie-talkie for a member, Sherpa, and basecamp
- Group safety equipment, i.e. extra rope, carabiners, ice axe, ice screw
- Porterage of personal and group camping equipment
- Helicopter charge for supplying fresh meat, fruits, and vegetables from Kathmandu
- Expedition Crew Allocation & Cost
- Climbing Crew: Expedition Manager/Climbing Guide and 1 personal Sherpa (1:1 ratio) for the summit
- One High Altitude Cook for Camp II for group size 6 or above
- One Cook and required number of kitchen porters at the basecamp
- Porters to carry camping equipment’s and supply food from Lukla to Basecamp
- Equipment’s, daily wages, carrying bonus, and medical insurance for climbing crew/Sherpa
- Equipment’s, daily wages, and medical insurance for Kitchen crew and porters
- Summit bonus of US$1500 for climbing Sherpa once you make a summit attempt from Camp IV or US$750 if dropped from Camp IV
- Unexpected increment in the royalty fee/climbing permit
- International airfare and Nepal visa fee
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Extra hotel nights in Kathmandu
- Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance
- Medical evacuation charge if required
- Personal trekking and climbing gears
- Tips for climbing Sherpa and Kitchen team at basecamp
- Service besides mentioned in inclusions example – extra oxygen, Sherpa and porters
- Other personal nature expenses i.e. alcoholic beverages and self-ordered hot drinks during the trek
MOUNTAINEERING GEARS CHECKLIST (7000m to 8848m)
- Down Suit - Recommended Absolute Zero Over suit by Mountain Hardwear, or Ulvetanna Suit by Berghaus, or The Himalayan Suit by The North Face, or the Expedition Suit by Rab.
- Down Jacket and a pair of Down Salopettes - Recommended Absolute Zero Parka and Absolute Zero Pants by Mountain Hardwear, or by Rab. - not very bulky
- Waterproof Jacket and Over trousers that goes over your alpine boot
- Balaclava - Recommended The North Face A3543 Unisex Wool Balaclava or similar covering nose and face
- Long sleeve Thermal shirt and Trousers - Recommended anti-sweat
- Fleece Jacket and Trousers - Recommended Patagonia, or The North Face, or Mountain Hardwear
- Liner gloves - thin and warm
- Down mitts - Recommended The North Face, or Marmot Expedition mitt, or Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Mittand.
- Mountain Gloves - Recommended water & windproof
- Gore-Tex Primaloft Glove - Recommended the North Face, or Mountain Hardwear.
- Smartwool Mountaineering Socks (2 pairs - new)
- Ultra-Soft Running / Hiking Socks (2 pairs - new)
- Mountaineering boot Recommended La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo or Millet Everest GTX
- Alpine boot - Recommended La Sportiva Men's Nepal EVO GTX Boot or similar
- Climbing helmet - Recommended Black Diamond
- Ski Goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
- Headlamp - Recommended Black Diamond &Petzl
- Spare batteries - Recommended Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries
- Harness Set
- Lightweight Harness - Recommended DMM Super Couloir, or Black Diamond Couloir Harness, or MammutOphira 3 Side climbing harness
- Ascender (Jummer) - Recommended Petzl or Black Diamond
- Abseiling device - Recommended Black Diamond ATC Guide Bley Device, or Petzl GRIGRI 2 Grey Belay, or Descent Device D14BG
- Screwgate Carabiners (2 X large, 2 X small sizes) - Recommended Petzl or Black Diamond
- Bent Gate Carabiners (2 medium sizes) - Recommended Petzl or Black Diamond
- 6 mm rope - Recommended 2 meters UIAA tested
- 6 mm rope - Recommended 5 meters UIAA tested
- 1 X tape sling - Recommended 120 cm UIAA tested
- Dynamic 8.9 mm rope (single rope) - Recommended 2 m UIAA tested
- Classical Alpine ice-axe - Recommended (70-90 cm) Petzl, or Grivel Air Tech, or Black Diamond
- Crampons that fits Mountaineering boots - Recommended Grivel G-12 New-Matic Crampons
- 55-65 Liter Rucksack - Recommended POD Black Ice, Crux AK47 (extendable) and Crux AK57
- Base Camp Duffel – XXL
- 2 X 5 season sleeping bag with compression bag - Recommended North Face and Mountain Hardwear
- 2 X 5 season foam sleeping mat - Recommended 72 x 20 inches (20 x 5 x 5.5 inches folded) and weigh around 14 ounces
- Swiss Army Knife with a multi-tools system or leathermen
TREKKING GEARS CHECKLIST (2000m to 5000m)
- Sun Hat/Normal cap
- Fleece or woollen hat
- Earmuffs/Ear warmers (optional)
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Buff Scarf / thin face mask
- Fleece or woollen thin gloves
- Gore-Tex mitten gloves
- Gore-Tex Jacket
- Gore-Tex Pant
- Hiking pant
- Fleece trouser and jacket or warm jumper - Recommended not thick but warm enough that fits inside the Gore-Tex pant
- Anti-sweat T-shirt
- Thermal inner trouser
- Down jacket with hoodie
- Trekking boots
- Hollow Out Outdoor Slipper
- Trekking socks (4-5 pair)
- Snow Gaiter
- Sleeping bag (comfort rated - 15 ºC)
- 30 Liter Rucksack with cover
- Large size Duffel Bag with padlock
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Water bottles 1 Liter
- Basic First Aid Kit including antiseptic cream, throat lozenges, diarrhoea treatment (Imodium), altitude (Diamox), painkillers, plasters and blister treatment, insect repellent, and re-hydration salts (Dioralite). Glucose tablets and multi-vitamin tablets are also a good idea.
- Waterproof washing kit bag
- Towel - medium size
- Washing soap, towel, tooth pest, toothbrush etc.
- Sun Lotion Enough +30SPF (including total bloc for lips, nose etc.)
- Handwash& sanitizer
- Toilet paper (you can buy this in the lodges)
- Wet tissues
- Trekking poles
- Trainers or similar for use in the lodges
- Baselayer leggings
- Sleeping bag liner
- Earplugs (particularly if you are not the one snoring)
- Pen-knife (remember to pack sharp objects in hold baggage)
- Repair kit – (e.g. needle, thread, duct tape)
Once services are price have been agreed and a booking has been secured then a deposit of 25% of the tour cost is required. The deposit can be made in any one of the four currencies (US$, £ Sterling, € Euros or NPR). The deposit sum required is to be made by cash or Credit/Debit card and any Credit/Debit card payment will carry a service surcharge of 3.5%. The balance (full payment) of the cost of the services to be provided is to be paid two month prior to the departure date of the first service to be provided. Once the full payment is been made, below cancellation charge applies:
- From 45 to 30 days: 30% cancellation charge of the total cost.
- From 29 to 15 days: 70% cancellation charge of the total cost.
- Less than 14 days: 75% cancellation charge of the total cost.
The deposit is non-refundable except owing to cancellation by Thamserku Trekking in which case the deposit will be refunded in full. In the event of cancellation by the client/s, only in exceptional circumstances might the deposit, or a part of the deposit, be refunded on a ‘good-will’ basis. Under no other circumstances will the original deposit be refunded. In the event of postponement by a client/s once the deposit has been paid, the deposit paid can be reallocated to a subsequent date (fixed or unfixed) within a 12 month period from the date of postponement advice. In this case prices are subject to review. Once the contracted program has begun no refund will be made or any consideration can be made only under extreme circumstances.
Tipping is generally expected by all the expedition staff at the end for the excellent service they had provided to make your expedition successful. Normally the tips are given at the end of the expedition and this is best done as a group. We recommend that each group member contributes around $1000 - $1500 for the expedition crew at the last evening at the base camp and part of the collection to the climbing guide/ leader in the last day dinner in Kathmandu. You are welcome to give away some of the equipment’s or clothing that you are not going to take back home, you can donate to the local staff, for this your group leader will make arrangements for a fair distribution among the crew.
Visas on Arrival
For the arrival visa in Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) in Kathmandu, the immigration gets really busy during April, May, October and November; sometimes it takes hour to get the visa. Also, the wait is longer if you stand in the wrong queue. So below is the guideline for the visa on arrival and clearing the immigration at the airport. 1st Queue: Filling the application form. The clients can avoid this queue by filling the online application form (https://online.nepalimmigration.gov.np/tourist-visa) in their home country. A sample of the online application form with the necessary details has been filled (see attached). The clients should put the exact information as seen in the attached file; the hotel name could be different. Once you fill up the form and submit, they will receive another slip (see attached) which they need to print it out and bring along with them. 2nd Queue: Cash Counter. If the clients have online slip beforehand, they can stand directly at the cash counter avoiding the 1st queue. It is advised for the clients to carry the exact visa fee amount (cash) either in US $ or Euro, but not in Nepalese Rupees. 3rd Queue: Immigration. Once the payment is done, the clients need to stand at the Immigration line with the receipt from the cash counter and necessary documents.
Please ensure that you have a current passport well before travelling. It also needs an accurate photo and should be valid for at least six months after you are scheduled to return home. Also check that your airline tickets are in exactly the same name as your passport.
Copies of key documents
We recommend that you photocopy the main pages of your passport, your airline ticket, itinerary, insurance policy and credit cards. Keep one set of photocopies with you, separate from the originals. Leave one set of copies at home with family or friends. It is also worth taking some extra passport photos with you.
The Trekking Day
The day usually begins between 6.30 am and 7.30 am. After you have packed all your gear into your kitbag, breakfast will be ready. While you are eating, the crew members will make up the loads for the porters. You will often be on the trail by 7.30 am, though at higher altitudes the start is usually later, as we wait for the sun to warm the air a little.
Medical preparation/Travel Insurance and Safety Guidelines
- Every Thamserku Trekking traveller is required to have comprehensive travel insurance. This covers you for medical costs associated with hospitalization, emergency travel and repatriation back to your home country. Remember to bring a copy of your insurance policy with you or send us the scanned copy.
- Apart from having travel insurance and being in generally good health, some pre-holiday health preparation is advised. We strongly recommend you visit your doctor to discuss health requirements for your trip. They will advise you regarding the appropriate inoculations and in some places anti-malarial medication may also be required. Some vaccines need to be administered a few weeks before departure so allow plenty of time. Obtain a certificate of vaccination and carry this with you on this trip. A dental checkup is also highly recommended before departure.
- Acclimatization to high altitudes (generally for trips over 3500 meters): We take this very seriously, which is why we have one of the best safety records in the Himalaya. We have over 30 years of experience in the region and our success rates on high altitude treks are very high. Our itineraries allow for a safe approach to high altitudes, following the guidelines set out by the Himalayan Rescue Association. We even carry Oxygen, mask and regulator for your safety and peace of mind on all treks proceeding above 4000 meters.
- Our leaders are highly experienced mountain guides. Please follow their instructions very carefully as you ascend to high altitudes: walking slowly rather than hurrying, wearing sunglasses during the day, maintaining a high level of (non-alcoholic!) fluid consumption, not sleeping during the day, wearing adequate warm clothing are all factors of importance. Your leader will brief you fully on these considerations prior to the start of your trek.
- In addition, if you are taking any medications with you which may have been suggested as an aid to acclimatization - Diamox is quite commonly suggested - it is vital that you advise your leader in Kathmandu before you leave for the start of the trek. He will then discuss with you the advantages and disadvantages of taking this medication, and in particular when you should consider starting it and the duration for which it should be taken. Be aware that many trekkers have no need for such medication.
- The official currency of Nepal is the Nepali rupee (NPR). Its symbol is often displayed as Rs.
- Refer to https://www.nrb.org.np/fxmexchangerate.php for current exchange rates.
- ATMs can only be found in Kathmandu, Pokhara and Bhaktapur. Money exchange facilities are available in Kathmandu, Pokhara, Chitwan (only outside the park) and Bhaktapur.
- The Government of Nepal has banned the import, export and use of 500 and 1000 Indian rupee notes in Nepal. You should ensure you are not carrying these notes on arrival in Nepal as they will be confiscated and you may be fined.
- Please note that most establishments in Asia will not accept foreign currency notes that are old, torn or faded and they can be very difficult to exchange or extra fees added when exchanging at banks. Please ensure that you have new, clean notes.
If you have booked an arrival/departure transfer or is included in the program price. Please ensure that we have been advised of your correct flight details into Kathmandu by either yourself or your travel agent. Your Group Leader will be at Kathmandu airport to meet your flight and transfer you to your hotel.
If you encounter any problems on or need any assistance, please Contact our Emergency number below:
- 1st Contact: Dawa Sherpa (Expedition Manager): +977-9801333616
- 2nd Contact: Yalamber Rai (Operations Manager): +77-9851131344
- Office Hours only: Thamserku Office: 00977-1-4433886
We are a partner with Travelife – sustainability in Tourism. We believe strongly in low impact or rather positive impact tourism. Broadly speaking this means that we try to minimize the negative aspects of tourism on the local cultures and environments that we visit and highlight the positive aspects.